Long long drive from Zagreb to Sarajevo, made longer by speeding ticket and punctured tyre. Staying in Srdja and Nevena's rooftop apartment with spectacular views. Sarajevo interesting blend of faded Austro-Hungarian grandeur, brutalist Socialist housing and Turkish aesthetic. Many mosques. Poor, high unemployment. I thought people sat around a lot in cafes in Zagreb, but here they are everywhere. Everyone smokes. Evidence of war on buildings bullet and shell holes here and there. Talk of the Serbian snipers who hid in the forested mountain behind city. Everytime Dushko explains it, I get more confused. All so unnecessary, inexplicable and sad. We are being called to prayer as i write.
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